Racetrack Rug Crochet Pattern

I love finding a great vintage pattern of any sort. There is a world of information out there waiting to be brought out of the archives and stitched up.

I was thrilled to find an Annie's Pattern Club 1984 pattern written by a designer of the day named Cathy McFarland. A super clever pattern, the Road Rug (super speedway) seemed like the perfect choice for my house full of boys who just love to race their cars all over the carpet.


Original cover photo "Road Rug"

The pattern itself was uncomplicated but, as always, I try to get into the brain of the designer and actually understand how and why a pattern is written in the manner that it is instead of just happily and blindly crocheting my way to the end as I should. Even though I did manage to get to the last round of the rug, it looked as if I would run out of yarn just before finishing. I was so disgusted about my poor yardage calculations before beginning (I find that my extreme, obsessive eagerness to begin a project usually outweighs any clear thinking about yardage and hook sizes before I begin) and the look of the project when I laid it out on the table to ooh and ahh over that I completely abandoned the project two months ago.

My first, pitiful attempt at making this a cute project.

I dug it out again just last week after some new yarn called to me (as if I don't have enough) at the store the other day. With a certain little tot's birthday rapidly approaching, I thought I would give it another try. This time, unfortunately for me, I just started from scratch and rewrote the whole, dumb thing. Why? Because the original looked terribly sloppy and thin (well, I was using worsted yarn instead of the recommended rug yarn after all) with it's makeup of half double crochets!

It must have been the "stitch of the day" back then because I find it used in nearly every vintage pattern I've encountered that was written before 1990. Yikes. It is certainly a lot quicker than a single crochet but does not have the tightness or sleek finish of the latter stitch. I'm willing to put some extra time into my projects to get a neater finished result. Can you imagine the contemporary "amigurumi" being stitched in a half double crochet or greater? No, no, no. The HDC definitely has its place in lacework, pattern stitches and making interesting shapes but you will not find it used in my patterns if a SC can be used instead.

Here is my finished project after rewriting and redesigning the entire pattern. I like it. It's all ready for some hardcore racing...

My final work after completely redesigning the pattern.

Here is my pattern ready for you to try. Please feel free to edit, if necessary, and post your edits on Ravelry. I wrote it in a rather unconventional way so you can see how the circular ends are worked (increasing 3 sts on each end) and how the sides each contain 54 sts. This should make edits easier. Try working it up in some earth-friendly wool for a green holiday gift- Enjoy!


Racetrack Rug (sc remake)
I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn for this project. Two 7oz skeins (approximately 364 yards) of green and one skein of black should be enough to finish the project but I suggest having just one more skein of each on hand to be on the safe side for any mishaps along the way...

The first sc(s) of each Rnd will be worked in the same st as joining.

Ch 57 with H hook

using green yarn
Rnd 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 54 sc, 3sc in end, sc in underside of next 54 ch, sc in end ch, join with sl st to first sc to complete round (114 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc next 2 sc, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next 3sc, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (120 sts)

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (126 sts)

Rnd 4: ch 1, (sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (132 sts)

Rnd 5: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, join with sl st to first sc (138 sts)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (144 sts)

Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, join with sl st to first sc (150 sts)

Rnd 8: ch 1, (sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (156 sts)

Rnd 9: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc join with sl st to first sc (162 sts)

Rnd 10: ch 1, (sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (168 sts)

Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 8 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, join with sl st to first sc (174 sts)

Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 10 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, join with sl st to first sc (180 sts)

Rnd 13: ch 1, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, join with sl st to first sc (186 sts)

Rnd 14: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 12 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 11 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, join with sl st to first sc (192 sts)

Rnd 15: ch 1, (sc in next 13 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 13 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (198 sts)

Rnd 16: ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, join with sl st to first sc (204 sts)

Rnd 17: ch 1, (sc in next 15 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 15 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 15 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (210 sts)

Rnd 18: ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 16 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 13 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, join with sl st to first sc (216 sts)

Rnd 19: ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, join with sl st to first sc (222 sts)

Rnd 20: ch 1, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 10 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, join with sl st to first sc (228 sts)

Rnd 21: ch 1, turn work so back side is facing you- you will work this round in the opposite direction as previous rnds.

loop stitch (lp st): insert hook in next sc, wrap yarn 3 times clockwise around two fingers, insert hook into all lps on fingers and pull through the sc, drop lps from fingers, yo, pull through all lps on hook to complete sc.

Repeat this st in each sc around rug. Join with sl st to first sc (228 sts)

Change to black yarn

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (228 sts)

Rnd 23: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 19 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 18 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, join with sl st to first sc (234 sts)

Rnd 24: ch 1, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 20 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 20 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, join with sl st to first sc (240 sts)

Rnd 25: ch 1, (sc in next 21 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 21 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 21 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (246 sts)

Rnd 26: ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 22 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 22 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 19 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, join with sl st to first sc (252 sts)

Rnd 27: ch 1, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, join with sl st to first sc (258 sts)

Rnd 28: ch 1, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 24 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 24 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, join with sl st to first sc(264 sts)

Rnd 29: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 25 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 21 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 25 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 21 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 21 sc, join with sl st to first sc (270 sts)

Rnd 30: ch 1, sc in each sc around (270 sts)

Rnd 31: ch 1, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 26 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 26 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, join with sl st to first sc (276 sts)

Rnd 32: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 27 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 26 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 27 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 26 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 26 sc, join with sl st to first sc (282 sts)

Rnd 33: ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 28 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 23 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 28 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 23 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 23 sc, join with sl st to first sc (288 sts)

Rnd 34: ch 1, (sc in next 29 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 29 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 29 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (294 sts)

Rnd 35: ch 1, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 30 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 30 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, join with sl st to first sc (300 sts)

Rnd 36: ch 1, sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 31 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 31 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, join with sl st to first sc (306 sts)

Rnd 37: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 32 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 28 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 32 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 28 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 28 sc, join with sl st to first sc (312 sts)

Rnd 38: ch 1, (sc in next 33 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 33 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 33 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (318 sts)

Rnd 39: ch 1, sc in each sc around (318 sts)

Change to green yarn

Rnd 40: ch 1, turn work so back side is facing you- you will work this round in the opposite direction as previous rnds.

loop stitch (lp st): insert hook in next sc, wrap yarn 3 times clockwise around two fingers, insert hook into all lps on fingers and pull through the sc, drop lps from fingers, yo, pull through all lps on hook to complete sc.

Repeat this st in each sc around rug. Join with sl st to first sc (318 sts)

Continue working in same direction:

Rnd 41: ch 1, sc in each sc around (324 sts)

Rnd 42: ch 1, dec in each sc around (162 sts)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Finishing
Flip Rnd 42 to back of rug and stitch down to back using a long strand of black yarn and a tapestry needle. Using a doubled strand of white yarn (or glow-in-the-dark yarn), stitch road lines evenly (approximately every two sc sts) around track between Rnd 30 and Rnd 31. Lay a piece of black felt on back of rug and cut out the approximate shape of rug leaving about 2” to fold under. Fold the extra 2” under and stitch to edge of rug using a small needle and sewing thread. To keep the layers flat and held together, sew through both layers (felt and yarn) using a running stitch around the edges of the black track as if you are quilting.

A Study In Color Joins: Crocheting In Rounds Part 2

This week we will study a new method for you to try when you are crocheting concentric circles (like a bulls-eye) and changing to a new color for each new round. Here is your pattern as in Part 1:


Chain 2 and crochet in 2nd chain from hook or use the Magic Ring to begin a new circle:

Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd chain or ring, join with sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc (12 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join with sl st to first sc (18 sts)

Fasten off.


Color Change: Method 2


Step 1: Crochet all 6 sc in ring for Rnd 1.


Step 2: Insert hook into 1st sc of Rnd as if to join and grab the new color yarn.


Step 3: Draw the new color yarn through loops to complete sl st join.

Continue Rnd 2 using new color yarn and change color for Rnd 3 in the same manner.

Here is what the completed color joins of Rnds1-3 look like.

As you can see to left of the white mark, this method produces a small horizontal line giving a less polished end result. However, it is a perfectly acceptable alternative for those who do not mind a more visible join.

A Study In Color Joins: Crocheting In Rounds Part 1

As the leaves on the trees change color this autumn, I thought it would be appropriate to do a little study in color changes when crocheting in the round. There are many ways to approach color changes and the end results vary. Now is your chance to learn something new if you are a beginner or try a new approach if you are a seasoned professional!

Let's begin by pretending that you are crocheting concentric circles (like a bulls-eye) and that you are to change to a new color for each new round. Here is your pattern:


Chain 2 and crochet in 2nd chain from hook or use the Magic Ring to begin a new circle:

Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd chain or ring, join with sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc (12 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join with sl st to first sc (18 sts)

Fasten off.


Color Change: Method 1


Step 1: Make 5 1/2 sc in ring.



Step 2: Change your color just before you draw the yarn through to complete the last (6th) sc of Rnd 1.



Step 3: draw new color through both lps to complete last (6th) sc

Finish this Rnd with sl st join using new color yarn. Change color for next Rnd in the same manner.

Here is what the completed color joins of Rnds1-3 look like.


This method creates a nearly invisible join with the exception of the vertical stitches to the left of the white lines in the picture. It is, however, a bit tricky to remember that you have to join the color at the second half of the last sc. I usually forget and have to rip the last stitch out to redo.