Everyone's A Genius

Here it is- completed! This is one of my ideas that lived in my sketchbook for several years waiting for inspiration to complete. The insanity hit very early one Saturday morning in September as I lay awake in the wee hours of the morning flooded with ideas and new techniques. I crept downstairs to the craft lab and began work. Several hours later when the babes awoke, the hat was complete (but not assembled).

Being inspired to design a new item is great but actually extracting the pattern from my brain is another story. That part takes the most drive of all. The lifeless, unassembled Smart Hat sat untouched and the pattern had been left cryptically scribbled on a torn piece of paper until just two days ago. Then, voila! Complete and now available for you to recreate in any color or size you wish.

Go to www.candypopcreations.etsy.com to see the complete line of beanies!

A Study In Color Joins: Crocheting In Rounds Part 4

I came up with this method of joining colors because the other ways just didn't seem invisible enough to my eyes. It is my favorite way of joining a new color when crocheting concentric circles (like a bulls-eye) and changing to a new color for each new round. It can also be tweaked for joining a new color when crocheting in spirals.

This is great method to use when you need to make many small units like tiny balls and find it easiest to use an assembly line by crocheting all Color A's first, then coming back and crocheting Color B into each piece, etc. By fastening off after each color, the pieces can wait forever without a stitch holder until you return to add the new color. Here is the same example pattern as in Parts 1-3:


Chain 2 and crochet in 2nd chain from hook or use the Magic Ring to begin a new circle:

Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd chain or ring, join with sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc (12 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join with sl st to first sc (18 sts)

Fasten off.


Color Change: Method 4


Step 1: Crochet all 6 sc in ring for Rnd 1 and join with a sl st to complete the Rnd.


Step 2: Cut yarn.


Step 3: Pull tail end through last st made to fasten off. This tail can be crocheted over in the next round to weave it in or you can save all of the tails until the end and weave them in later with a large-eyed tapestry needle.


Step 4: Insert hook into the single crochet just before the joining slip stitch of the previous round and grab the new color yarn.


Step 5: Pull the new color yarn through stitch.


Step 6: Yarn over and draw through loop to complete a single chain.


Step 7: Crochet the next stitches of Rnd 2 in the same stitch as you joined your new color in.


Step 8: Crochet the next sc into the sl st of previous Rnd.

Be sure to pull the loose cut tail (yellow in picture) taught after you crochet into the slip stitch to avoid accidentally crocheting into the first single crochet of Rnd 1 that is hiding underneath. This is marked with an X in Step 8 and the dots represent the correct stitches you should be crocheting in.

Continue Rnd 2 using new color yarn and change color for Rnd 3 in the same manner.

Here is what the completed color joins of Rnds1-3 look like.


Once mastered, I believe that this method is the most effortless and produces the most invisible join.

A Study In Color Joins: Crocheting In Rounds Part 3

This week we will study yet another method for you to try when you are crocheting concentric circles (like a bulls-eye) and changing to a new color for each new round. Here is your pattern as in Parts 1 and 2:


Chain 2 and crochet in 2nd chain from hook or use the Magic Ring to begin a new circle:

Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd chain or ring, join with sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc (12 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join with sl st to first sc (18 sts)

Fasten off.


Color Change: Method 3


Step 1: Crochet Rnd 1 complete with sl st join.


Step 2: Before ch 1 of next Rnd, grab new color yarn.


Step 3: Draw new color yarn through to complet ch 1.

Continue Rnd 2 using new color yarn and change color for Rnd 3 in the same manner.

Here is what the completed color joins of Rnds1-3 look like.

As you can see, this time left of the white lines are rather large diagonal gaps in the color join. It is, in my opinion, the least polished of all methods. However, for those who like to join the color right at the beginning of the next round, this is an ideal option.

Racetrack Rug Crochet Pattern

I love finding a great vintage pattern of any sort. There is a world of information out there waiting to be brought out of the archives and stitched up.

I was thrilled to find an Annie's Pattern Club 1984 pattern written by a designer of the day named Cathy McFarland. A super clever pattern, the Road Rug (super speedway) seemed like the perfect choice for my house full of boys who just love to race their cars all over the carpet.


Original cover photo "Road Rug"

The pattern itself was uncomplicated but, as always, I try to get into the brain of the designer and actually understand how and why a pattern is written in the manner that it is instead of just happily and blindly crocheting my way to the end as I should. Even though I did manage to get to the last round of the rug, it looked as if I would run out of yarn just before finishing. I was so disgusted about my poor yardage calculations before beginning (I find that my extreme, obsessive eagerness to begin a project usually outweighs any clear thinking about yardage and hook sizes before I begin) and the look of the project when I laid it out on the table to ooh and ahh over that I completely abandoned the project two months ago.

My first, pitiful attempt at making this a cute project.

I dug it out again just last week after some new yarn called to me (as if I don't have enough) at the store the other day. With a certain little tot's birthday rapidly approaching, I thought I would give it another try. This time, unfortunately for me, I just started from scratch and rewrote the whole, dumb thing. Why? Because the original looked terribly sloppy and thin (well, I was using worsted yarn instead of the recommended rug yarn after all) with it's makeup of half double crochets!

It must have been the "stitch of the day" back then because I find it used in nearly every vintage pattern I've encountered that was written before 1990. Yikes. It is certainly a lot quicker than a single crochet but does not have the tightness or sleek finish of the latter stitch. I'm willing to put some extra time into my projects to get a neater finished result. Can you imagine the contemporary "amigurumi" being stitched in a half double crochet or greater? No, no, no. The HDC definitely has its place in lacework, pattern stitches and making interesting shapes but you will not find it used in my patterns if a SC can be used instead.

Here is my finished project after rewriting and redesigning the entire pattern. I like it. It's all ready for some hardcore racing...

My final work after completely redesigning the pattern.

Here is my pattern ready for you to try. Please feel free to edit, if necessary, and post your edits on Ravelry. I wrote it in a rather unconventional way so you can see how the circular ends are worked (increasing 3 sts on each end) and how the sides each contain 54 sts. This should make edits easier. Try working it up in some earth-friendly wool for a green holiday gift- Enjoy!


Racetrack Rug (sc remake)
I used Red Heart Super Saver yarn for this project. Two 7oz skeins (approximately 364 yards) of green and one skein of black should be enough to finish the project but I suggest having just one more skein of each on hand to be on the safe side for any mishaps along the way...

The first sc(s) of each Rnd will be worked in the same st as joining.

Ch 57 with H hook

using green yarn
Rnd 1: 2sc in 2nd ch from hk, sc in next 54 sc, 3sc in end, sc in underside of next 54 ch, sc in end ch, join with sl st to first sc to complete round (114 sts)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc next 2 sc, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next 3sc, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (120 sts)

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (126 sts)

Rnd 4: ch 1, (sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (132 sts)

Rnd 5: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, join with sl st to first sc (138 sts)

Rnd 6: ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (144 sts)

Rnd 7: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 4 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, join with sl st to first sc (150 sts)

Rnd 8: ch 1, (sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (156 sts)

Rnd 9: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc join with sl st to first sc (162 sts)

Rnd 10: ch 1, (sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (168 sts)

Rnd 11: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 8 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, join with sl st to first sc (174 sts)

Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 10 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, join with sl st to first sc (180 sts)

Rnd 13: ch 1, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 3 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, join with sl st to first sc (186 sts)

Rnd 14: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 12 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 11 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, join with sl st to first sc (192 sts)

Rnd 15: ch 1, (sc in next 13 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 13 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 13 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (198 sts)

Rnd 16: ch 1, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, join with sl st to first sc (204 sts)

Rnd 17: ch 1, (sc in next 15 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 15 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 15 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (210 sts)

Rnd 18: ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 16 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 16 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 13 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, join with sl st to first sc (216 sts)

Rnd 19: ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, join with sl st to first sc (222 sts)

Rnd 20: ch 1, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 10 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, join with sl st to first sc (228 sts)

Rnd 21: ch 1, turn work so back side is facing you- you will work this round in the opposite direction as previous rnds.

loop stitch (lp st): insert hook in next sc, wrap yarn 3 times clockwise around two fingers, insert hook into all lps on fingers and pull through the sc, drop lps from fingers, yo, pull through all lps on hook to complete sc.

Repeat this st in each sc around rug. Join with sl st to first sc (228 sts)

Change to black yarn

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (228 sts)

Rnd 23: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 19 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 18 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 18 sc, join with sl st to first sc (234 sts)

Rnd 24: ch 1, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 20 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 20 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 9 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 11 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, join with sl st to first sc (240 sts)

Rnd 25: ch 1, (sc in next 21 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 21 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 21 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (246 sts)

Rnd 26: ch 1, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 22 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 22 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 19 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 19 sc, join with sl st to first sc (252 sts)

Rnd 27: ch 1, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 9 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, join with sl st to first sc (258 sts)

Rnd 28: ch 1, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 24 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 24 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 6 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 18 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, join with sl st to first sc(264 sts)

Rnd 29: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 25 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 21 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 25 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 21 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 21 sc, join with sl st to first sc (270 sts)

Rnd 30: ch 1, sc in each sc around (270 sts)

Rnd 31: ch 1, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 26 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 26 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 12 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 14 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc, join with sl st to first sc (276 sts)

Rnd 32: ch 1, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 27 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 26 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 27 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 26 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 26 sc, join with sl st to first sc (282 sts)

Rnd 33: ch 1, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 28 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 23 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 28 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 23 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 23 sc, join with sl st to first sc (288 sts)

Rnd 34: ch 1, (sc in next 29 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 29 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 29 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (294 sts)

Rnd 35: ch 1, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 30 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 30 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 7 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, join with sl st to first sc (300 sts)

Rnd 36: ch 1, sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 31 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 23 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 31 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 14 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 17 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 14 sc, join with sl st to first sc (306 sts)

Rnd 37: ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 32 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 28 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, (sc in next 32 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 28 sc, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in next 28 sc, join with sl st to first sc (312 sts)

Rnd 38: ch 1, (sc in next 33 sc, 2sc in next sc) twice, sc in next 54 sc, (sc in next 33 sc, 2sc in next sc) three times, sc in next 54 sc, sc in next 33 sc, 2sc in next sc, join with sl st to first sc (318 sts)

Rnd 39: ch 1, sc in each sc around (318 sts)

Change to green yarn

Rnd 40: ch 1, turn work so back side is facing you- you will work this round in the opposite direction as previous rnds.

loop stitch (lp st): insert hook in next sc, wrap yarn 3 times clockwise around two fingers, insert hook into all lps on fingers and pull through the sc, drop lps from fingers, yo, pull through all lps on hook to complete sc.

Repeat this st in each sc around rug. Join with sl st to first sc (318 sts)

Continue working in same direction:

Rnd 41: ch 1, sc in each sc around (324 sts)

Rnd 42: ch 1, dec in each sc around (162 sts)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


Finishing
Flip Rnd 42 to back of rug and stitch down to back using a long strand of black yarn and a tapestry needle. Using a doubled strand of white yarn (or glow-in-the-dark yarn), stitch road lines evenly (approximately every two sc sts) around track between Rnd 30 and Rnd 31. Lay a piece of black felt on back of rug and cut out the approximate shape of rug leaving about 2” to fold under. Fold the extra 2” under and stitch to edge of rug using a small needle and sewing thread. To keep the layers flat and held together, sew through both layers (felt and yarn) using a running stitch around the edges of the black track as if you are quilting.

A Study In Color Joins: Crocheting In Rounds Part 2

This week we will study a new method for you to try when you are crocheting concentric circles (like a bulls-eye) and changing to a new color for each new round. Here is your pattern as in Part 1:


Chain 2 and crochet in 2nd chain from hook or use the Magic Ring to begin a new circle:

Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd chain or ring, join with sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc (12 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join with sl st to first sc (18 sts)

Fasten off.


Color Change: Method 2


Step 1: Crochet all 6 sc in ring for Rnd 1.


Step 2: Insert hook into 1st sc of Rnd as if to join and grab the new color yarn.


Step 3: Draw the new color yarn through loops to complete sl st join.

Continue Rnd 2 using new color yarn and change color for Rnd 3 in the same manner.

Here is what the completed color joins of Rnds1-3 look like.

As you can see to left of the white mark, this method produces a small horizontal line giving a less polished end result. However, it is a perfectly acceptable alternative for those who do not mind a more visible join.

A Study In Color Joins: Crocheting In Rounds Part 1

As the leaves on the trees change color this autumn, I thought it would be appropriate to do a little study in color changes when crocheting in the round. There are many ways to approach color changes and the end results vary. Now is your chance to learn something new if you are a beginner or try a new approach if you are a seasoned professional!

Let's begin by pretending that you are crocheting concentric circles (like a bulls-eye) and that you are to change to a new color for each new round. Here is your pattern:


Chain 2 and crochet in 2nd chain from hook or use the Magic Ring to begin a new circle:

Rnd 1: 6sc in 2nd chain or ring, join with sl st to first sc (6 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2sc in each sc around, join with sl st to first sc (12 sts)

Change to new color

Rnd 3: ch 1, (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around, join with sl st to first sc (18 sts)

Fasten off.


Color Change: Method 1


Step 1: Make 5 1/2 sc in ring.



Step 2: Change your color just before you draw the yarn through to complete the last (6th) sc of Rnd 1.



Step 3: draw new color through both lps to complete last (6th) sc

Finish this Rnd with sl st join using new color yarn. Change color for next Rnd in the same manner.

Here is what the completed color joins of Rnds1-3 look like.


This method creates a nearly invisible join with the exception of the vertical stitches to the left of the white lines in the picture. It is, however, a bit tricky to remember that you have to join the color at the second half of the last sc. I usually forget and have to rip the last stitch out to redo.

Heat Of The Summer Shirt

It was mania again. I was only passing through the fabric selection at the craft shop and this fabric jumped out at me, grabbed me by the neck and demanded that I buy a couple of yards. Could I resist? Luckily, when I got home I dug this pattern out of my stash (purchased last month at the thrift store for a whopping 10 cents) after contemplating over dinner what the best use for this cool fabric would be. By 2:00am the next morning this shirt was born.


I tried out a few alterations to bring the style up-to-date a bit. First, I lengthened it about 2 inches total so it would look nice with the modern cargo pants that I found to match. I left the bottom 1 1/2" of each side seam open and did a little decorative double top stitching around them in orange thread as well as up the sides and around the sleeve seams. The pocket has tapered corners, unlike what was called for in the pattern, and the top stitching on this was done in black rather and the bright orange.




My favorite part of making this shirt is that I am trying out new seam finishing techniques. I took the relatively simple route with this shirt and after cutting them with the pinking sheers I just ran a straight seam halfway in-between the finished seam and raw edge of each side.

This last photo is to show the very cool hemp/chainmail necklace that my dear husband made to match the shirt. Isn't he lovely and talented?

Back To Spring

It seemed like the perfect day today to make this little nest of peeps with the balmy 60 degree breeze streaming through the windows for the first time in months and months. You may recognize that it is a takeoff on the project in Family Fun magazine Easter edition. Cam had a great time picking up the little seed bead eyes with a pair of tweezers and gluing them into place. It turned out to be a fun craft time together and a little hand-eye-coordination exercise for him as well (ok, for me too).

I must say that I did a bit of scrambling to figure out how I would get the nest to stick together since the directions called for liquid starch and I had none. I watered down some flexible fabric glue and it seemed to do the trick. Cam's favorite part was dipping and dragging the yarn through the sticky glue while I wrapped and wrapped it around a cling wrap covered bowl to resemble the nest.


The little birdies reminded me of the Spring Peeps crochet pattern I designed a couple of years ago.

The All-American Fiber Burger Discovered

Perfect for vegans and carnivores alike, this classic burger has all of the character and none of the calories! My very first crochet design, born out of the frustration with plastic toy food and lack of any such crochet pattern available nearly three years ago, has been discovered. It was my very first item sold on Etsy and has been modified over and over again since to achieve the perfect look (ah, perfection again) and now also includes a pickle upgrade for an extra $5 . Only ten more available here. I only wish I was just a bit faster at making them than I was then. It still takes me 6 hours to complete just one.

Ellen Warren's feature in the Chicago Tribune came out yesterday and it was a hit! Ten burgers sold out in less than 24 hours. You can see the feature article here in her column "Just One Thing" Ellen was great and her article was terrific. Check it out!

Wooly Stripes And The Tetanus Shot

Just a few weeks back I couldn't resist snagging this vibrant wool sweater from the thrift store. I wasn't sure exactly what I would do with it but knew it had potential. So, I packed it up and brought it home along with the matching sequin bracelet sitting next to it in the picture that gave a nice contrast to the wool. It sat on my cutting table awaiting its fate for nearly a month.

And then, on the day the town nearly shut down with it's frigid -18 wind chill, it was decided. Baby Chase was going to get a new hat.

I carefully cut the threads that joined the turtleneck to the bodice, separating the two pieces. This left me with the unbound loops from the last row of the knitting which I wove a piece of yarn through and cinched closed to form the top of the hat.

I took a huge gob of wonderful red wool roving that I had ordered earlier from www.yarnpunk.etsy.com and began felting a perfect pom-pom for the top. I experimented a bit with it. I haven't done tons of felting but I knew how to needle felt a ball. Then when it was a nice shape but not perfectly round (because I do so very much like perfection) and not small enough, I turned to wet felting the rest. I'm sure this next part is not conventional but it worked. I held it under warm water and squeezed it and shaped it like play-dough. I thought I'd heard about using soap too so I put a bit of laundry detergent on it and it seemed to smooth the stray fibers if nothing else. Once I had achieved the perfect, compressed sphere (don't panic now) I threw it in the dryer on medium and watched it bounce around and around. I don't know if this really made it much smaller but I was very impatient to finish the hat for the following morning and didn't think a soggy ball would fare well in the cold weather. Could you imagine that big ice chunk on the top of Chase's head?

Well, the felted ball was terrific, even if I did stab myself in the thumb and ended up with a Tetanus shot the next day. Hey, that reminds me to remind you to keep up-to-date on these shots. I have been stabbing myself for years with needles and pins but never really thought about renewing my long overdue Tetanus shot until I started using that charcoal-colored felting needle. It just looked a little scarier than the nice, shiny stainless steel needles I use to sew with. So, don't skip it.

Here is the finished project after attaching the ball with needle and thread and some hot glue (shh, don't tell!)

Cute as a button and there's still so much more I can do with the rest of the sweater! Here are some tips if you have an old turtleneck you'd like to recycle:

1. If you cannot find the thread that attaches the neck to the bodice, very carefully cut it off using a sharp pair of scissors. Be very careful not to stretch it or tug on it which will deform it and possibly make it unravel.

2. My cinching the loops worked great but there is an alternative if you're handy with the sewing machine. Simply flatten the tube (neck piece) measure the open, cut edge and mark it into four even segments. Sew from the edge of one side toward the middle stopping at the first marking. Repeat on the other side. Now fold and flatten the opening in the other direction with your stitched sides running down the middle front and middle back and remaining markings now at the edge of the tube. Sew across the opening. You should have sewn an "X" at one end of the tube which will now become the top of the hat.

3. You can put a store purchased puff, pom-pom or felted ball at the top of the hat to add character or nothing at all!

I know that you're probably thinking "Why are we talking about a winter hat when it's spring?" Well, my friend, spring may be approaching on the calendar but take a look outside. The Easter Bunny may just be making footprints in the snow this year...

A Belated Valentine

I know it's a bit past the date but I just discovered these pics I took of our Valentine's Day project! I got the idea from an issue of Family Fun magazine. We made little play-dough hearts for all of Cam's classmates , bagged in mini jewelry ziplock bags and tagged them with cut poster board and included the recipe we used. Lucky for me, I found this terrific cast iron heart-shaped pan while thrifting the week before although a cookie cutter would have also worked perfectly well. It was a great project for a preschooler since Camden was able help make the dough, mould the shapes and stick the little stickers onto the bags. The kids loved them and it was a nice change from all of the sugary stuff that always comes home on such a sweet day. Of course it also fueled the handmade revolution. Bookmark this for next year- you'll love it too!


Here's the recipe I used:

Homemade Play Dough

1 cup flour
1 cup water
2 t cream of tarter (get it in the spice aisle)
1 T oil
1/2 c salt
1 package unsweetened Kool Aid (optional to make it smell nice!)
red food coloring

Mix all ingredients together in a saucepan and stir over medium heat until thickened. Remove from pan and knead in food coloring until blended and smooth. Place in plastic bag or airtight container when cooled.

Roses Are Pink

Last week I finally broke out the supplies for this little bouquet of sweet roses I've been planning for years. I've had a sketch in my purse of a kiss rose I saw in a store ages ago and am finally around to trying out my version for my mom's birthday. Made with Hershey's kisses, clear cellophane tissue paper from the dollar store, some lollipop sticks, floral tape and a shiny leaf sequin I found in my embellishment box, these roses look just perfect in last Saturday's thrift find.